The fast track to France
Mark Smith of Seat 61 heads for the south of France by Eurostar and high-speed TGV
You might think that cutting CO2 emissions by up to 90 per cent was reason enough to forsake short haul flights and use the train. But if you need another incentive, you’ll soon find that that it's not just the planet that's benefiting.
With airport hassles and airline delays, a switch to train travel could cut your stress levels significantly and make getting there part of the fun.
Heading for the sun
My wife and I have certainly found that true for us. With 18 month old Nathaniel in tow, we headed for the south of France by train to chase away those UK winter blues. Walking into the Eurostar terminal at St Pancras for the first time, the sheer scale of the beautiful 19th century roof took our breath away.
When completed in 1868, St Pancras was the largest enclosed space in the world. It has been expertly restored as the home for 21st century Eurostar trains bound for Paris, Lille and Brussels. A faithful replica of the original station clock sits at the apex of the roof, and below it a 9 metre sculpture of an embracing couple called the meeting place.
Alongside the platforms, separated from departing trains by a thin glass wall, is Europe’s longest champagne bar - a welcome chance to celebrate our journey!
A transport of delight
We arrived at St Pancras with plenty of time to spare, but you can check-in as little as 30 minutes before departure. It’s easy too – you just put your ticket into the automatic gates at the entrance to the departure lounge underneath the platforms. After a simple security check, we settled down with a coffee in the lounge until called to board our Eurostar.
Soon after leaving St Pancras the Eurostar enters a tunnel under east London. Emerging north of the Thames, we passed the vast suspension bridge at the Dartford Crossing and tunnelled again under the river and across Kent. We glimpsed Rochester castle and cathedral to our left as the Eurostar flew at 186mph across the viaduct over the River Medway.
Barely 35 minutes from London had the Eurostar entered the Channel Tunnel and 20 minutes later it burst into daylight in France. We spotted the distinctive outline of Calais town hall, just visible on the horizon to our left.
The journey only takes 2 hours 15 minutes to Paris, but we were heading for the south of France. A simple same-station change in Lille onto a southbound TGV (train à grande vitesse) would avoid the need to change trains and stations in Paris. This makes the journey utterly painless, even with luggage and a toddler.
Admiring the scenery
The TGV from Lille to Marseille was an imposing double-deck TGV '‘Duplex'. We’d found some cheap first class tickets by booking online well in advance and had selected an upper deck first class 'club duo' table-for-two. Much of the train was full, but our coach was not, so Nathaniel played happily in the empty row of seats opposite our own.
Once settled on-board, we enjoyed sandwiches from the bar with a bottle of red I’d brought along (no rules against this on the rails). We relaxed on the top deck, admiring the beautiful scenery of France.
We crossed wide expanses of undulating farmland, punctuated with small villages, each with its own ancient church, no two spires the same. Our TGV bypassed Paris, and to the south the scenery hots up. We passed lush green valleys and an occasional village or church perched on a hilltop before stopping briefly at Lyon.
Beyond Lyon, the train heads along the Rhone Valley, crossing and recrossing the river. Approaching Avignon, the train crossed a long viaduct, with the famous Palais des Papes visible along the river in the distance. Although if you can see anyone dancing ‘sur le pont d’Avignon’ you’ve got better eyesight than me!
Approaching Marseille, the train slowed and to the right we glimpsed the Notre Dame de la Garde on its hill above the city. Then we spotted the harbour with its infamous prison Chateau d’If (of 'Count of Monte Cristo' fame).
Marseille is only three hours by train from Paris and less than seven hours from central London. With two hour check-ins and time spent getting to and from airports, flying would have taken around five hours overall.
We changed trains onto another TGV to Nice, a couple of hours beyond Marseille. This was a high-speed train in name only, trundling sedately along the classic rail route to the Riviera. The route hugs the coastline after St Raphael, around rocky headlands and deep blue bays. This was the famous Cote d’Azur, and this was definitely the way to arrive.
Share this
(What is this?)