In Berlin for breakfast

German night train: Eco travel to Berlin

Fancy a long weekend in Europe? Why not try the night train, says Ruth Harwood

London’s St Pancras station is looking good. In a bold new renovation, the historic red brick structure has been merged with clean lines and glass to create a stunning yet calming departure point.

I was here to catch my Eurostar train to Brussels. I’d finished work at 5.30pm, hopped on the tube and unexpectedly found myself with two hours to kill before my departure. Unlike airports, you only need to check in 30 minutes in advance.

Why was I here? I’d long been wondering whether I really needed to fly for my next holiday. Was a short haul flight to Germany worth the environmental damage, not to mention the check-in and security hassle? I decided to try the train instead.

With time on my hands, I checked out the new Eurostar terminal. The meeting point statue of a couple embracing is my favourite addition, although the main lounge could have benefited from a warmer layout.

After some more neck craning, I made my way up the escalators to the platform. There was no scrum for seats and the train left on time, with an arrival time of 10.30pm in Brussels.

On the night train

Brandenburger gate: Berlin by train

Photo: visitBerlin.de

Intercontinental services are faster and more reliable than national routes in the UK. The journey gave us time to indulge in a bottle of wine while we zipped under the sea and through the darkness.

And it really wasn’t that much slower than flying. The whole journey took about 12 hours – once you factor in check-in, security, baggage carousels and transfers, I’d reckon an overall travel time of 10 hours on the same route by plane.

The change at Brussels was easy – no coaches to and from distant airports. The Deutsche Bahn’s NachtZug 243 left at 11.40pm, arriving at the main station, Berlin Hauptbahnhof, at 8.10am.

‘Nachtzug’ means night train, but I soon realised that getting a good night's sleep might be a challenge. You can choose between a hostel-style dorm or a private sleeping car. But for a light sleeper like me, it made little difference – every time the train stops, you hear the commotion in the stations. Next time I’ll bring earplugs.

Nevertheless, you do have the advantage of travelling overnight and arriving early, giving you more holiday time. And stepping straight off the train in the destination of your choice with all your stuff means that you can get going right away.

Berlin has a fantastic public transport system. When you arrive at Berlin Hauptbahnhof, your tickets are valid for travel to Alexanderplatz. From there are fast and reliable connections via the U Bahn (underground) and S Bahn (suburban railway) to the entire city.

U Bahn: Eco travel to Berlin

Photo: Steve Calcott

Don't miss

I had four days to get a second taste of the city I visited about two years ago. That time I ticked all the tourist boxes – now I wanted to experience it like a local and spend my time exploring the less obvious attractions.

The highlights of my trip were the simple things like hanging out in fashionable Prenzlauer Berg – an arty area with cheap cafes, boutiques and hip bars. It’s such a buzzing place, packed with quaint pubs and some of the most eclectic underground clubs in Europe.

For chic Berlin shopping walk around Kastanienallee, also in Prenzlauer Berg – all the young designers have their shops there. Another culture hotspot is Kunsthaus Tacheles - it is a legendary art squat (now legal) housing studios, galleries, a cinema, theatre and a bar.

If you like museums and art galleries, Berlin has them in abundance. Don’t forget to visit any of the private galleries along Auguststrasse (all free) – they are among the most cutting-edge in Europe.

Excursions

As for day trips, Potsdam is 20 minutes away on the S-Bahn 7 and one of the best excursions from Berlin. Sitting on the banks of the Havel River among woodland and lakes, it is an impressive baroque townscape of palaces, beautiful parklands and lush gardens.

Just to the west of Berlin, Spandau is an ancient fortress town at the confluence the Spree and Havel rivers. It’s off the main tourist trail, but worth seeing for the 12th century timber-framed houses that offer a glimpse into Berlin’s medieval past.

Journey details