60 second guide to... Parabens

Ethical cosmetics

Supporters of organic beauty products say we should avoid synthetic chemicals, such as parabens. But can they really harm our health?

What are parabens?

Parabens are chemicals used to maintain freshness in cosmetics and food. There are four main varieties:

  1. methylparaben
  2. propylparaben
  3. butylparaben
  4. ethylparaben
Some parabens are found naturally in plants, such as methylparaben in blueberries, but most that are used in cosmetics are synthetically produced.

Until recently parabens were considered among those preservatives with a low toxicity profile, primarily causing allergic reactions. They have a long history of safe use and this, coupled with their low production cost, has led them to become commonplace in cosmetics.

How widespread are parabens?

A 1995 study showed that parabens were in 99 per cent of leave-on cosmetics and 77 per cent of rinse-off products. But Chris Flower, director general of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association claimed in 2004 that there are “almost no deodorants and body sprays that contain parabens, although they are in most other creams and cosmetics."

That year a small survey by New Scientist of three UK shops and one supermarket found deodorants in each that contained parabens, although most of the products did not. They are also widely found in body sprays, hair removal creams, shaving gels, body lotions, face creams, cleansers and toothpaste.

Should we be worried?

For many years parabens have been considered safe, but recent studies have suggested that they might be more harmful than we think. Most of the information linking parabens to breast cancer comes from one small study from 2004, which identified parabens in samples of breast tumors.

The study suggested that parabens in leave-on cosmetics migrated to breast tissue and were involved in the development of cancers. This is because parabens can mimic the actions of oestrogen and other hormones in the body.

Oestrogen controls - amongst other things - the development of hormone-sensitive cancers, such as most breast cancers. Obviously, the links between antiperspirants and breast cancer triggered much concern, but there is still no proven causal link between them. Darbre’s study was very small and critics argue that healthy breast tissue needs to be included to accurately indicate cancer risk.

The American Cancer Society also believes there is no scientific evidence to support a direct link between parabens and an increased breast cancer risk. Nevertheless in 2006, the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Products called for more research into whether parabens can be safely used in cosmetic products at the current legal limits.

What are the alternatives?

In many cases, we know safe alternatives exist and are already being used by some cosmetic companies. Many companies are not waiting for the scientific evidence to slowly roll in. They are acting now to create non-toxic hair care products, lotions and cosmetics that are paraben-free.

Forward-thinking manufacturers are using essential oils such as rose and sandalwood, which when distilled, are potent enough to act as natural antiseptics, anti-fungals and antibacterials. Some ranges include super-concentrated products using food grade herb, flower and oil extracts.

More research is needed to determine whether parabens are toxic. But if you want to avoid buying cosmetics that contain them, make a start by reading the ingredients and looking for reliable organic certifications, such as the Soil Association.